Jelado age of longing 301 XX denim
JELADO "STANDARD COLLECTION"
Age of Longing 301XX Indigo
JELADO "STANDARD COLLECTION" releases a new classic 5-pocket denim 301XX.
This original denim fabric "LAST RESORT" was used and released as "301XX".
The fabric of Levi's 501XX DEAD STOCK in the early 1950s was disassembled, and rice cotton was selected from cotton, and the thread thickness, fiber length, and number of twists were scientifically approached and reproduced. We use ounce denim fabric.
The fabric reproduced based on the data obtained by analyzing all the indigo colors and the number of fabrics to be driven is named the original denim fabric "LAST RESORT", and the products using this denim have the original name. Is attached and the leather patch is engraved with XX.
This time, we sewed denim that perfectly reproduced the sewing thread and count of denim while following the pattern based on the leather patch of that time.
The characteristic shape of the back pocket is also reproduced, and the sewing method with a single stroke and the sewing with a triangle at the end are also reproduced.
The color scheme of the belt loop is different only in one place.
Not only the sewing parts but also the rivets are all original, and the front tack button is also made of iron.
Please try the denim that challenged the highest reproducibility in JELADO history.
W28 Waist / Waist 70m Length / Length 83cm Rise / Rise 30cm Watari / Thigh 26.5cm Hem width / Opening 20cm
W29 Waist 73cm Length 83cm Rise 30cm Watari 27cm Hem width 20cm
W30 Waist 76cm Length 83cm Rise 30.5cm Watari 28cm Hem width 20.5cm
W31 Waist 79cm Length 83.5cm Rise 30.5cm Watari 29cm Hem width 21cm
W32 Waist 81cm Length 81cm hem 21Cm
W33 waist 84cm length 88cm rise 31cm Watari 29.5cm hem width 21Cm
W34 waist 86cm length 88cm rise 31.5cm Thigh 30.5cm hem width 21.5Cm
W36 waist 89cm length 88cm rise 32.5cm Thigh 31.5cm hem width 22Cm
W38 waist 94cm length 88cm Rise 32.5cm Watari 32.5cm Hem width 22.5cm
W40 Waist 99cm Length 89cm Rise 33cm Watari 33.5cm Hem width
About "LAST RESORT",
the base of our market is the world of vintage replicas.
Faced with the material of Levi's 501XX, which can be said to be the royal road of vintage, we dismantled Dead Stock denim and started by analyzing the thread and weave of the fabric at the national inspection agency.
As a result of the analysis, we started to make denim fabric from the process of making threads according to this "LAST RESORT (Treasure sword of the legendary family)". It will be.
It is said that 501XX is woven with 7th warp and 6th weft, and in the United States around the 1950s, spinning technology was not yet stable, and as a result of dismantling and analyzing vintage dead stock, depending on the individual. It turned out that there is a difference in thickness in decimal units.
The thread that weaves the original denim this time was able to be reproduced to the decimal point based on the analysis results.
The thickness of the thread count becomes thinner as the number goes up, but the calculation method is to use a thread weighing 1 pound (about 454 grams) and 840 yards (about 768 meters) as the first thread, and the length 2 times (1680 meters) thread is 2nd, 3 times (2520 meters) thread is 3rd, and the larger the number, the thinner the thread, so it is possible to reproduce the thread up to the decimal point. ..
Therefore, it was found that in order to reproduce this fabric, it was necessary to make it from the thickness of the thread, so we decided to select from cotton and make the original weaving thread.
The 501XX uses yarns with completely different fiber lengths for warp and weft, with medium-long cotton for the warp and ultra-long cotton for the weft.
In reproducing this denim, we selected cotton that is as close as possible to the fiber length at that time from rice cotton (American cotton) that would be the same as at that time.
Cotton may vary depending on the cultivation area, and long-fiber cotton is cultivated in areas with high temperatures, and short-fiber cotton is cultivated in areas with low temperatures.
Since the United States has a place suitable for both of them, we were able to stick to rice cotton with a fiber length close to that of the yarn at that time because there is an environment where we can grow cotton that has the characteristics of both.
EMOT (Eastern, Memphis, New Orleans, Texas), which is a collection of cotton near Memphis, is used for the warp, and Pima cotton cultivated in California is used for the weft, and the twist coefficient of the yarn is reproduced, and the same yarn as at that time is used. Succeeded in reproducing.
Next, dye the original reproduced thread in indigo! !!
Is it a reddish indigo or a bluish indigo?
This JELADO denim project has the largest production lot in the 15 years since it was founded.
When weaving denim of the huge production lot, not only the reproducibility of denim but also the stability of dyed color, that is, the stability of production where everything is finished with the same color and the same quality without color blurring (without deterioration of quality) is the standard. I am choosing a dyeing factory.
Before deciding, we carefully and carefully checked the entire rope dyeing process, and then decided by looking at the uniformity of the dyeing of each thread.
When customers like this denim fabric and buy it again a few years later, when they choose the same denim fabric, the color fading will not be different from the one they purchased last time, or the dyeing will be uniform. I thought that the condition and color stability would lead to the purchase again, and imagined that "I can confidently recommend this stable dyeing at this dyeing factory." I decided to do it.
On the contrary, the color blur of indigo becomes an atmosphere like old clothes, and if you are chasing the real, isn't the color blur a little? There is also a view that, if it is a product made with such a concept, I think that I asked a different factory, but this denim will be a new standard for JELADO to advance to the next 10 or 15 years. Therefore, there is absolutely little color blurring, and we are thinking and deciding to continue making indigo of the same color.
Dyeing is first carried out in a process called warping before the spun yarn is dyed.
The equipment used in this process of bundling 600 to 900 yarns for about 6000 yards (about 5.486 m) in a rope shape and winding them into a cylindrical shape was originally developed by a certain company, and the warping is completed. And, using the rope dyeing machine that was successfully developed for the first time in Japan, we will dye the raw yarn with indigo dye.
The pure white yarn is passed through the indigo dye tank multiple times and squeezed with a roller.
At first, it has a bright green color, but while it is being rolled up to a high place, it is exposed to the air and oxidizes, gradually changing to indigo.
By adjusting the blending of indigo dye, the time of contact with the air, and the tension of the thread, it is possible to express indigo in various shades, and the core whiteness (not dyeing the core of the thread) that is indispensable for discoloration peculiar to jeans. It is possible to put it out.
Although these are automated equipment, the adjustment of each machine requires skillful skills (craftsmanship) accustomed to operation.
After that, the warp threads dyed in indigo are glued to finish, and finally the fabric is shipped to the hataya who actually weaves the fabric.
The machine shop I asked for this time has asked a skilled craftsman who weaves selvedge denim for many years to weave denim.
Commitment to weaving This 501XX is scientifically analyzed to reproduce and weave threads that are exactly the same as those at that time, that is, threads of the same standard.
In order to carry out thorough manufacturing here, we used the TOYODA G3 power loom, which is said to have been the first to operate in Japan, under the guidance of a craftsman who can weave according to the number of lines.
In addition, Selvedge also disassembled the vintage and dyed it in the same red ear color as at that time, and examined and reproduced the number of threads running left and right around the red ear.
Parts other than denim fabric are also reproduced without overlooking.
The 501XX fabric "LAST RESORT (Treasure Sword of the Denka)" at that time was reproduced through these multiple steps.
By all means, I hope that you will actually pick it up, check it with your own eyes, and enjoy the particular fabric that you have worn yourself.